Andalusia in a glass

Forget about the tourism, check out the wines!

According to the Spanish Ministry of Tourism, Spain received 93.8 million international tourists in 2024. That’s a lot of people. And around 13 million of them went to Andalusia. Given that, there’s a good chance that some of you may be planning to spend your summer holidays in the south of Spain this year – if you’re not already there. So we thought we’d take a look at some of the winemaking regions in that part of the country, in case you get a chance to pop along and visit them.

This week, we’re focusing on the Denominación de Origen (DO) Sierras de Malaga.

DO Sierras de Malaga is situated on the south coast of Spain, centred around the buzzing city of Malaga. In fact, rather than one single homogenous wine-growing area, the DO is spread across the province of Malaga, covering seven different geographical areas.

The wine-producing regions of Sierras de Malaga. Image taken from the website of the Sierras de Malaga Regulatory Council

Starting in the west, you have Manilva, centred around the popular resort of Estepona, and the interior region of Serranía de Ronda. Moving westward, you find yourself in the coastal region of Costa Occidental, encircling Marbella, and the slightly more inner region of Sierra de las Nieves. Head further inland and to the north, and you’ll find yourself in the appropriately named Norte de Malaga region (literally north of Malaga), which sits atop the Montes de Malaga region, which wraps itself around the city of Malaga itself. And then finally, to the east, you’ll find the hilly Axarquía (A-Shar-Kia) region.

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In recent years, Malaga has become a thriving economic hub for Spain, as well as a magnet for expats and tourists alike. But wine production began here way before the suncream brigade arrived. The first references to winemaking in the region date back to the time of the Phoenicians in around 800 BC, who, as well as growing their own grapes, also traded wine across the Mediterranean. Wine retained an important role subsequently in both Greek and Roman society, and grapes continued to be cultivated, and raisin production grew during the Moorish occupation of Al-Andalus (711 – 1492).

Wine culture continued after the Christian reconquest, as wine growers’ rights began to be formally recognised in the late 15th and early 16th century during the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella and afterwards during the reign of Philip III with the creation of the Hermandad Gremial de los Viñeros. The Hermandad, or Brotherhood, still exists to this day and paved the way for the creation of the modern-day DOs of Malaga – famous for its rich fortified wines - in 1933, and Sierras de Malaga in 2001, which is known for its still wines.

The coast played an important part in the development of the international wine trade in these parts, but from a wine-making perspective, it’s as you go inland that things get interesting. Turn your back on the beaches and you’ll find the land rises quickly and steeply. And this is where you find a lot of the vineyard areas, especially in places like the Axarquía or the Sierras de Ronda. Here, plots are planted on steep slopes between 600 and 1,000 metres above sea level. As a result, mechanisation can be impractical and viticultura heróica (literally “heroic winemaking”) the order of the day. So, you’ll still find lots of winemakers tending the vineyards and harvesting by hand or with the help of their trusty donkeys.

That landscape also affects the climate. At close to 37º latitude, it’s easy to label DO Sierras de Malaga as a warm climate wine growing area. But its position means it receives both Mediterranean and Atlantic influences, while that altitude helps ensure a good thermal range, with temperatures dropping at night, which helps grapes ripen gently and gradually despite the summer heat. So whilst you can and do find plenty of full-bodied, fruit-forward wines in these parts, there are also a lot of crisp, fresh wines being produced from those higher altitude slopes, and they are worth investigating.

In terms of grapes, you’ll find a wide variety of native and international grape varieties in wines from Malaga. Still wines made with Pedro Ximénez or the aromatic Muscat of Alexandria abound. But look out too for harder-to-find grapes like Romé, Malaga’s only native red variety, or the white Doradilla – just 22 hectares planted in Spain, all in Andalucía – which helps add volume and saline notes to white blends.

So, which wines to try if you’re on your hols in these parts?

Well, La Melonera is one vineyard that’s worth hunting out. Situated in Serranía de Ronda, this small team are breathing new life into old native grapes and making exceptional wines along the way. Try their La Encina del Inglés Blanco made from a blend of Moscatel Morisco, Pedro Ximénez, and Doradilla. It’s got plenty of stone fruits and white flowers on the nose, whilst the Doradilla gives it a slight salty tang on the mouth that balances those fruit flavours perfectly.

Alternatively, you could opt for La Raspa from Viñedos Verticales, a delightful artisanal operation based in the tiny village of Moclinejo in Axarquía. A blend of Muscat of Alexandria and the aforementioned Doradilla, this delicious white combines fruit, flowers and freshness to produce an eminently drinkable summer wine.

And then there are the naturally sweet, liqueur wines that Malaga province is famous for. These delicious aperitifs are made mainly from Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel and get their sweetness by stopping fermentation prematurely, so not all the sugar turns to alcohol. They come in a range of styles: Vino Dulce Natural, where wine-based alcohol is added during fermentation to stop the process; Vino Maestro, where wine alcohol is added before fermentation starts to ensure a slow, incomplete fermentation; and Vino Tierno, made from grapes that have been sun-dried on rush mats in the vineyard – a technique known as asoleo - before fermentation. This process helps to dehydrate the grapes and concentrate the naturally occurring sugars. Fermentation is again stopped with the addition of wine alcohol.

The Antigua Casa de Guardia in Malaga. A perfect place to try the region’s traditional sweet wines.

If that wasn’t enough to get your head round, you’ll also find aged versions, from the young pálidos, aged for up to 6 months, to the nobles (2-3 years), añejos (3-5 years), and the grand old trasañejos (over 5 years). Personally, we recommend you head to the Antigua Casa de Guardia, one of Malaga´s most iconic bars, and try the Pajarete 1908. Aged for a minimum of two years, it’s a perfect way to whet your whistle after a hot morning of sightseeing.

But whether you go for a standard bottle or a traditional sweet aperitivo, Sierras de Malaga offers a range of wines and wine styles that perfectly capture the sun-drenched charm of Andalusia and are sure to add an extra something to your holidays.

Cheers