Lambrusco: Ain’t nothing like the real thing

In which a trip to Bologna leads to discovering that this sparkly little gem deserves a second look.

I spent a weekend in Bologna recently, and it has immediately become one of my favourite places in Italy. Now, Bologna is probably not the first name on your list of “Places in Italy I’d Most Like to Visit.” And in a way it’s not surprising. It sits rather humbly in the north of the country, surrounded by some of the biggest A-list names in Italian tourism. To the northwest you’ve got uber-stylish Milan, to the northeast the romantic canals of Venice, and to the south you’ve got Florence and more Renaissance art than you can shake a Medici at.

Not forgetting of course, Rome, the epicentre of all that is Italy.

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So, it’s not surprising that many visitors overlook poor little Bologna. Which is a shame because it’s just perfect.

For a start, it’s full of history. Yes, Rome can give you the Colosseum. But Bologna can take you into a public library, down a flight of anonymous stairs, and along a corridor to a small area where you can walk around the ruins of the old town’s forum watching layers of history dating from the 7th century BC to the Medieval period, unravel before your eyes. There’s no charge to get in (although a donation is much appreciated) and when I went there, I was completely alone. Priceless.

It's just as amazing above ground. Everywhere you look you’ll see centuries-old red brick buildings, towers leaning at impossible angles, small side streets begging you to explore, and kilometre upon kilometre of covered walkways that make the entire city centre feel like an extended university campus. Which is fitting because Bologna is home to the oldest university in the western world. Established in 1088, the University of Bologna has a roll call of famous alumni that includes scientist and astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, poet and philosopher Petrarch, writer Umberto Eco, and director and playwright Pier Paolo Pasolini. Not bad.

And then there’s the food. Bologna sits in the heart of a region that is home to Parmesan cheese, Parma ham, Modena balsamic vinegar, and Mortadella to name just a few. And that’s before you start talking about the pasta! You could put on kilos here in just a weekend. Believe me, I did.

In fact, there’s so much to choose from that it can almost become overwhelming. So, I did the only sensible thing. I found myself a street side table at a small restaurant in a Medieval square and I ordered myself a bottle of Lambrusco.

(Yes, I did remember this is supposed to be a wine blog.)

Now, I know that Lambrusco has had a bit of a bad rap in the UK – and I believe the US as well. Many of us can probably recall picking up a bottle on our way to a house party simply because it was sweet and cheap. But that’s just the plonk the Italians exported to us boozy Anglo-Saxons. They kept the good stuff all to themselves – and believe me it’s good. To drink Lambrusco in Bologna is to drink nectar straight from the chalice of the gods.

For those who aren’t familiar with Lambrusco, it’s a sparkling red (mostly) wine made from the red Lambrusco grape. The grape comes in six different varieties - Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Montericco, Lambrusco Salamino, and Lambrusco Sorbara – all of which are native to the region. Styles range from very dry to fairly sweet, and the wines come in hues ranging from the delicate light pink, to deep, luscious purples.

Historically, the wine got its sparkle using either the traditional method used by champagne producers (ie by carrying out a secondary fermentation in the bottle) or by bottling the wine before the first fermentation had completed, thus creating a small amount of sparkle in the finished wine. These days, most Lambruscos are made using the charmant method, where secondary fermentation is carried out in large steel tanks before being bottled. But you can still find a few traditional examples around.

So, enough of the technical talk, what are they like to drink? To be honest, delicious. My chosen bottle on the street-side table was a Villa di Corlo Lambrusco Grasparossa Di Castelvetro Secco. It’s made from 100% Lambrusco Grasparossa, has 7 days cold maceration before fermentation and can be bottle aged for up to 2 years depending on the vintage. Those 7 days of maceration give the wine a wonderful deep purple colour and plenty of body. On the mouth it was full of lush blackberries, cherries, and ripe cranberries, wrapped in soft tannins and a gentle tickle of bubbles. And at just 11% ABV this was a very drinkable and very enjoyable aperitif wine.

I’d like to give you detailed tasting notes on all the other Lambruscos I got through during my short weekend stay, but to be honest I got so wrapped up in enjoying them that I didn’t manage to take any notes. What I can say is that they were all a perfect accompaniment to a range of dishes, from cold cuts and cheeses to robust meaty pasta dishes, and pizzas of all flavours. It really is a versatile wine.

So, if you do plan on heading over to Italy at some point, I strongly recommend you put Bologna on your itinerary. And when you get there, take every opportunity to try Lambrusco as it’s meant to be enjoyed. But if you can’t get over there just yet, then do the next best thing. Pop down to your favourite wine shop and ask for a bottle of this underrated gem – just make sure you get the one that the Italians drink.

Cheers!

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