Mountain reds

Why Mondeuse is worth a closer look this Easter

This week one half of Desoutter & James has continued their wanderings around France and ended up in the east in Haute Savoie. With most of the main ski resorts getting ready to pull down the shutters and start thinking about the summer season, now seemed a good time to take a closer look at Mondeuse, one of the region’s oldest and most distinctive red grape varieties.

While the name might prompt anyone of my vintage to think of a 1980s family saloon car - possibly with velour seats and a decent stereo included as standard - ask for a shot of vino in any wine bar east of Annecy, and chances are you’ll be served up a glass of this juicy, peppery red. I did just that at the cosy Vin (s)…quand tu veux - I’m sure there’s a sharp little play on words going on in there somewhere, but it was beyond my somewhat rusty French! - in the popular resort of La Clusaz, and it hit the spot beautifully.

The Mondeuse grape is planted primarily in Savoie, and while its modest 200 hectares are down on pre-phylloxera levels plantings are steadily on the way up. Wines tend to have quite a deep purple colour, with lots of acidity and a good dose of tannin. On the nose, Mondeuse wines can be powerfully aromatic, with notes of sour cherries, damson plums, pencil lead and an invigorating hint of black pepper.

Vineyards in Haute Savoie, France

For a long time people have suggested that Mondeuse was a cousin of Syrah, and this was confirmed by respected Swiss ampelographer - the technical name for a person who studies, identifies, classifies and names grape varieties - Jose Vouillamoz. Outside of France, you’ll find the grape in Switzerland, particularly in the Vaud canton, Sicily, Australia, Argentina and a smattering in California and Oregon.

Mondeuse combines beautifully with rack of lamb, so if you haven’t prepared that Easter roast yet, pop down to your local cave/bodega/wine merchant and grab a bottle.

Cheers,

Matthew